Roman forts, honey-stone cottages, roaring fires and the best autumn walk we've ever done, on the wild southern edge of Northumberland
Wild, empty and full of history
Northumberland is England's least crowded county, all huge skies, moorland and rivers. This trip was about the countryside. Northumberland National Park stretches across the north towards Scotland, Hadrian's Wall runs along its southern edge, and further south the land rises into the heather moors of the North Pennines. That's where we stayed, right on the border with County Durham.
The Roman history was our big draw, but we weren't prepared for how much other history we'd find in this little corner of England.
Blanchland: another hidden gem
We've travelled all over the UK, and we still stumble across places we've never heard of. Blanchland might be the best yet. You drop down off the moors into a sheltered bowl, and there it is: a tiny village of honey-coloured stone cottages, surrounded by woodland, with the River Derwent running past and the moors a short walk away. It looks like a film set.
It began life in 1165 as an abbey, home to the Premonstratensian "White Canons", named for their pale habits, which is most likely where Blanchland gets its name. The abbey closed in 1539 under Henry VIII, but it was never flattened. Part of the abbey church is still the parish church, the old gatehouse still stands, and the cottages were built using stone from the abbey. It still has a village shop, a village hall and the White Monk Tearoom, and at its heart is the old abbey, which is now a hotel.
Staying at the Lord Crewe Arms
The Lord Crewe Arms is built into the abbot's lodge and the abbey's guest house, so travellers have been staying here for over 800 years. It's a traditional country inn, with stone-flagged floors, low beams, tartan, antlers and enormous fireplaces. It's grand but never stuffy.
Our room was big and lovely, with a window seat, a huge bed, a little seating area and a freestanding bath, which was perfect after a cold November day.
Up a sweeping stone staircase is the Bishop's Dining Room, where we had a beautiful three-course dinner made with seasonal, local food. People travel from all over to eat here, so book ahead. Downstairs, the Hilyard has a huge inglenook fireplace that feels positively medieval, and the fire is always roaring. Then there's the Crypt Bar, a barrel-vaulted medieval room that doubles as the village pub. It's one of the most unique places we've ever had a drink.
Day one: Romans, a wall in a field and Hexham
After a wander around the village and tea at the White Monk, we headed north to Chesters Roman Fort, the best-preserved Roman cavalry fort in Britain. Built around AD 124 right on Hadrian's Wall, it was home to around 500 cavalrymen. You can explore the excavated gates, barracks and commander's house, but the star is the bath house by the river, one of the best-preserved Roman buildings in the country. There's a lovely Victorian museum and a little coffee house too.
Just round the corner is Brunton Turret, and it's free. The Wall isn't continuous across Northumberland, because large parts were lost over the centuries, so this is a brilliant spot to see it up close. You pull into a lay-by (it's easy to miss) and walk a couple of minutes across a farmer's field to around 69 metres of Wall and a turret still standing about two and a half metres high, with sheep for company.
Then it was on to Hexham, a lovely market town full of galleries, independent shops and vintage finds. We wandered the market square, had lunch at the Garden Rooms (famous for its toasties) and visited the beautiful Hexham Abbey, the heart of the town. There are some cute little museums too that we didn't get to this time.
A bonfire night surprise
Without realising it, we'd booked bonfire weekend, and Blanchland puts on a proper traditional bonfire and fireworks display that's famous locally. Thousands of people come, so the village and its lanes get pretty crazy. We felt very smug strolling out of the hotel to watch, then straight back for dinner and a glass of wine by the fire. We'd really recommend booking for it next year.
The village has a real community feel and runs events all year. We spotted posters for an upcoming Christmas market, which we think would be another magical weekend to stay.
Day two: our best autumn walk ever
After a slow breakfast, we set off on a fairly easy 5–6km loop from the village. A tiny, quiet lane takes you up the valley past the old Shildon Engine House, a striking ruin from the lead-mining days. The autumn colours were honestly some of the most stunning we've ever seen, and as you climb you get vast views across the moors. At the top you cross the burn and follow a dirt track back down, joining the riverside path into the village. It's easy underfoot and beautiful the whole way.
Know before you go
How long: We did two nights, which gave us about a day and a half.
Getting there: It's about 2.5 hours by train from London to Newcastle or Durham. Krystina picked me up, and you'll need a car, because Blanchland is very hard to reach without one.
Best times: Autumn for the colours, plus bonfire weekend and the Christmas market (book early).
Blanchland reminded us how much of the UK is still waiting to be discovered. We're already planning our return.