There’s a version of South Devon most people know. Busy beaches, packed car parks, queues for ice cream in Salcombe. Then there’s the one you get in the quieter months, when the crowds have gone home and the estuary settles back into its own rhythm. That’s the one we came for, and it turned out to be one of the most restful breaks we’ve had. If you’ve been following our Instagram, you’ll know that these out of season breaks, to the clasically busy holiday hot-spots are becoming one of our favourite ways to really get to know a place.
The Stay: Anchor Boat House
We stayed at Anchor Boat House, available to book through Finest Stays, and it’s hard to overstate the location. The house sits right on the Kingsbridge estuary, so close that at high tide the water comes right up to the boathouse, lapping the walls. Steps lead from the boathouse directly down to the water and the estuary beach, which meant the outdoors was never more than a few paces away.
It has four bedrooms and sleeps eight, so there’s plenty of room for a family or two to spread out. The picture-frame windows make the estuary the main event in almost every room, and you find yourself checking on the water the way you’d normally check your phone. Between the balcony and the veranda there’s always somewhere to sit with a coffee and watch what the tide is doing.
Evenings were spent in the hot tub, watching the sun go down over the water. The sunsets here are something else, and we didn’t miss one. On the wetter evenings, the cinema room earned its keep. It’s the kind of house you don’t feel any pressure to leave, and for us, who are always on the go, that really is saying something.
Life on the Estuary
What made this trip was the pace. The estuary is never quite the same twice: the tide slips out to reveal mudflats and channels, then fills back in until the water is lapping at the steps again. We got into the habit of planning the day around it, which is a surprisingly calming way to live.
The birdlife was a constant. Wading birds worked the mud at low tide, and there was always something drifting past or picking along the shoreline. You don’t need to know your species to enjoy it, though the kids were soon keeping a running tally.
They also spent hours fishing along the water’s edge, rods out, completely absorbed. No screens, no schedule, just a bucket and endless optimism. Out of season, with the estuary mostly to ourselves, it felt so tranquil.
Out and About
Hope Cove
We kept things deliberately simple. A full South Devon guide and itinerary is on the way, but here are the highlights:
Kingsbridge: An easy walk from the house, with independent shops and a relaxed, unhurried feel.
East Portlemouth: Head here for a coastal walk and views across the water to Salcombe.
Hope Cove: A pretty little cove worth the short drive, especially on a calm day.
One Last Thing
Out-of-season stays can feel like a compromise. This one didn’t. With the tide doing the entertaining and the house doing the rest, the Kingsbridge estuary is about as good as switching off gets.