Motorhome Adventures in the Outer Hebrides: 9 Days of Beaches, Ferries and Scottish Island Magic
Driving across the causeway from Berneray to North Usit
There are few better ways to explore Scotland than from behind the wheel of a motorhome. No unpacking and repacking every night, no rushing to make hotel check-in times, and no need to stick to a rigid itinerary. Instead, you simply wake up, make a coffee, and decide where the road takes you next (although we do always have a loose plan in place).
And if there's one destination perfectly suited to motorhome travel, it's the Outer Hebrides.
Stretching along Scotland's rugged west coast, this chain of islands is home to some of the most spectacular beaches in the UK. Think white sand that rivals the Caribbean, turquoise waters (not quite as warm as the Caribbean), dramatic mountain backdrops, and endless opportunities to slow down and appreciate the scenery and nature. But the main reason we love The Outer Hebrides, the remoteness. For the few days you’re there, you can switch off to all the noise of the world and really and truly relax surrounded by nature.
Our nine-day adventure took us from our motorhome collection with Peter Roberts Motorhomes in Yorkshire to the Isle of Skye and then across the Outer Hebrides, hopping between islands, stopping at some castles along the way, discovering hidden beaches, sampling local food (and whisky) and making the most of life on the road. Now, we spent a week in Lewis & Harris a couple of years ago, so this trip was focussing more on Berneray, North Uist, Bebecula, South Uist and Eriskay.
The Need to Know Information
For our latest UK staycation, we hired the T-Line 746 from Peter Roberts Motorhomes in Yorkshire, and its layout was our favourite layout to date and perfect for families/groups. With five seatbelts and sleeping space for up to six people, it offered us a great balance of practicality and comfort. The standout feature is the spacious rear U-shaped lounge, which created a large and sociable living area during the day and we loved the over-cab bed too as did the kids.
- 5 belts
- Sleeps 6
- Huge over-cab bed
- Large double bed
- Small double bed
- Bathroom with shower
- U shaped sofa/living space
- Dinette area
- Oven and hob
- Three way fridge
- TV & Wifi
- External hot shower for rinsing those sandy toes.
And you can use our code MYUKSTAYCATION to get 10% off your hire from Peter Roberts Motorhomes
The Route
Collection of Motorhome from Peter Roberts Motorhomes in Yorkshire
Stop 1: Glen Coe
Stop 2: Portree – Skye
Stop 3: Harris
Stop 4: Berneray
Stop 5: North Uist
Stop 6: Benbecula
Stop 7: South Uist
Stop 8: Eriskay
Begin the Journey home.
How to Get There
There are several routes you can take with Calmac Ferries to The Outer Hebrides, but we wanted to see a little more of the Highlands and Skye so opted for the Uig (Skye) to Tarbet (Harris) route which is a 1 hr 45 minute sail.
On our return we planned to go from Lochboisdale to Mallaig but due to technical issues we were diverted back through Skye.
Travelling in May, we had a smooth sail both there and back and even spotted some dolphins.
The Campsites
Glencoe Caravan & Camping Site
East Beach -Berneray (This is an aira, no facilities)
Here's how our trip unfolded
Day 1: Huddersfield to Glencoe
Our adventure began with collecting our motorhome from Peter Roberts Motorhomes in Huddersfield. After a quick but detailed handover and familiarisation with our home for the week, we packed the motorhome up and hit the road, heading north towards Scotland.
The drive to Glencoe is one of those journeys where the scenery gets better with every mile. As we passed through Loch Lomond and entered the Highlands, towering mountains, winding roads and dramatic valleys provided a fitting introduction to the trip ahead and this is a route you will never get bored of.
We spent our first night at Glencoe Caravan and Motorhome Club Campsite, a fantastic base surrounded by some of Scotland's most iconic landscapes.
Day 2: Eilean Donan Castle and Skye Bound
An early start was needed as we continued our journey towards Skye.
After a quick stop in Fort William to refuel and grab some groceries, our first stop was Eilean Donan Castle, one of the most photographed castles in Scotland and arguably the most beautiful. Set on its own small island where three sea lochs meet, it's every bit as impressive in person as it is in photographs.
A family ticket cost £38, and we also added the audio guide for £3, which helped bring the castle's history to life.
From there, we continued towards Skye, stopping at the famous Sligachan Bridge. With the dramatic Cuillin mountains in the background, it's an ideal place to stretch your legs and grab some photos.
That evening we stayed at Portree Campsite. The walk into Portree takes around 25 minutes along the road, but it's worth it for the colourful harbour views and lively atmosphere.
Before heading back to the van, we stopped at The Flight Deck (a pop-up Whisky & cocktail bar) for a drink overlooking the harbour whilst the kids played on the beach.
Day 3: The Old Man of Storr and Crossing to Harris
No visit to Skye is complete without seeing the Old Man of Storr.
The iconic rock formation is one of the island's most famous landmarks, and although the walk can be challenging in places, the views are absolutely worth the effort (when the weather is on your side).
Afterwards, we rewarded ourselves with a stop at the Skye Candle Company and Café. It's a lovely place for coffee, cake and a browse through their beautifully scented products.
Later in the day, it was time for one of the highlights of the trip: boarding the ferry from Uig to Tarbert and crossing to the Outer Hebrides.
As soon as you arrive in the Outer Hebrides, life just instantly slows down.
Our first Hebridean overnight stop was Horgabost Beach Campsite. Located right beside one of Harris's most stunning beaches and close by to Luskentyre, another iconic Harris beach.
Day 4: Beaches, Art and Island Hopping
The morning began with a walk along Horgabost Beach before packing up the van and continuing south. We made a quick stop at Talla na Mara for coffee and a wander around the gallery. This beautiful community space perfectly captures the creative spirit of the islands, with several galleries/artisit studios and a great café with picture frame windows.
Before catching the ferry, we spent some time exploring Leverburgh. It's a small village but has everything you need, including a handy supply shop, a Harris Tweed shop, and the popular Butty Bus for a snack. We also hoped to visit the Harris Brewery, but it was closed during our visit.
From Leverburgh, we boarded the one-hour ferry and zig-zagged our way across to Berneray.
That evening was magical! We stayed at East Beach, one of the most beautiful spots on the entire trip. Long walks on the beach, campfires and marshmallows by night and long plays on the beach for the kids. This was an aira, so no facilities but our motorhome was perfectly equipped for this.
Day 5: Berneray and North Uist
After waking up beside East Beach, we spent the morning soaking up the views before heading to the Berneray Bistro for coffee. The sea views from here are so pretty and make the perfect accompaniment to a morning caffeine fix.
We then crossed the causeway into North Uist and headed for Traigh Iar (often known as the Long White Beach). Like so many beaches in the Hebrides, it felt almost untouched and we had it all to ourdelves!
Lunch was at the Westford Inn, a popular local pub serving hearty food.
That evening we stayed at Balranald Campsite. Another beach side campsite. We loved its proximity to the beach and nature, including the RSPB reserve. Oh and it’s right next to The Dunes Larder, a brilliant 24hr self-service farm shop where you can stock up on local produce and grab a coffee.
As the day came to an end, we discovered this was also one of the best places on the trip to watch the sunset.
Day 6: Wildlife, Whisky and South Uist
We started the day with another visit to the RSPB reserve, keeping an eye out for local wildlife.
Next came brunch at Wee Cottage Kitchen in Malacleit, a fantastic little stop for food, refreshments and taking in the picturesque view.
From there, we visited Benbecula Distillery to learn more about whisky production and they also have a lovely cafe, before continuing south.
One of the day's highlights was Kildonan Beach in South Uist. With golden sands and clear waters, it's another location that demonstrates just how spectacular Hebridean beaches can be and as we basked in the Scottish sunshine, we spotted 8 seals on a close-by rock doing just the same.
For the night, we stayed at Otters Edge Campsite, which backs directly onto Liniclate Beach.
Day 7: Jewellery, Beaches and Scotland's Most Remote Football Pitch
The day began with a visit to Hebridean Jewellery, where we enjoyed a browse and stopped for coffee in their cafe.
We switched our plans around a bit here to make the most of the forecast sunshine so we headed south to Eriskay, a small island packed with character and history and my personal highlight of the trip.
One of the highlights here is the walk to Prince's Beach, a beautiful stretch of coastline associated with Bonnie Prince Charlie's arrival in Scotland.
Another must-see is Eriskay's famous football pitch, recognised by FIFA and often described as one of the most scenic football grounds in the world, it also starred in a Guiness World Cup advert a few years ago. With two footy mad kids, there was only one thing to do!
Next, we set off in search of the Eriskay wild ponies but didn’t have any luck spotting them. After working up an appetite, we headed to AM Politician, the island's well-known pub, for food and drinks and a history of smuggled Whisky.
That evening we stayed at Kilbride Campsite, which conveniently has its own café on site.
Day 8: A Step Back in Time
With the weather closing in today, we spent some time exploring Kildonan Museum to learn a little more about Hebridean history and life. The small museum offers a fascinating insight into island life, local history and the heritage that has shaped the communities of the Outer Hebrides for generations. There’s also a cafe and local craft shop as well as a replica Viking longboat to explore.
Our final evening called for a drink at the Polochar Inn which was short walk along the coast from Kilbride Campsite and on a sunny day would make a spectacular spot for a drink outside.
Day 9: The Journey Home
All good adventures have to come to an end but this trip well and truly scratched that adventure itch.
After one final morning in the Hebrides, we began the journey home, taking with us countless memories of empty beaches, spectacular sunsets, island ferries and the freedom that only motorhome travel can provide.
The Outer Hebrides offer a type of travel experience that's becoming increasingly difficult to find elsewhere in the UK. The landscapes are wild, the beaches are breathtaking, the communities are welcoming and the pace of life encourages you to slow down, observe nature and appreciate every moment. And because tourism is dictated by access via the ferries, it’s never too busy!
Travelling by motorhome made the experience even better. We had the freedom to explore at our own pace, stay in some truly spectacular locations and wake up each morning with a different view outside the window.
If you're looking for a UK road trip that's packed with adventure, scenery and unforgettable experiences, the Outer Hebrides should be right at the top of your list.
Top-Tips
Book your ferries as far in advance as possible, particularly if taking a vehicle. They do get booked up quickly, especially the Oban route.
Book your campsites in advance where you can. The campsites are all fairly small so book up quickly in the summer months. There are several locations dotted around where you can park up for the evening but always, always ensure you take your rubbish and waste with you!
The roads are quiet in The Outer Hebrides and the local drivers were super friendly and courteous. Just ensure you return the courtesy by using the passing places correctly and pulling in to let faster moving vehicles pass you.
Make the travel part of the road-trip. It may be a long journey but honestly, once you’re past Glasgow the scenery is so stunning it’s all part of the holiday. Build in stops along the way to make the most of the journey.
Go in mid-summer. We absolutely loved being there in late May. With the sun not setting until 10.00pm the endless days gave us all the time in the world to explore and enjoy our days.
Food & Drink – There are cafes and restaurants dotted around. We tended to cook most evening meals in the motorhome and calling in at cafe’s as we passed, if you are wanting to eat out, you’re best to book in advance.
Shopping and Fuel – There are Co-ops on each island as well as filling stations, if we passed one we just made sure to top up on supplies and fuel so we were never caught short.