Campervan Dreams & Island Days: A Road Trip to magical Mull, Ulva & Iona the wild Hebrides.

Let’s start with this: campervan life is the dream. Not the big, lumbering, reverse-into-a-layby-and-block-the-whole-road kind of campervan. I mean the compact, clever, roadhouse-on-wheels kind of dream. So when we picked up our roadsurfer Roadhouse campervan, we knew we were in for an adventure. And spoiler: we were so right.

With enough room for two grown-ups and two lively kids, this camper felt like the perfect mobile base camp. One huge comfy double bed at the back and another that magically pops up on the roof. A proper little kitchen. Hot water (!!), a shower, and space for everyone’s wellies, books, and a suspiciously large stash of snacks. Everything just worked, it was like a boutique hotel… that came with a steering wheel.

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Our top 10 highlights of the trip:

Campervan with roadsurfer
Tobermory
Visiting Ulva & The Boatyard
Isle of Mull Cheese shop & Cafe
Calgary bay
Glenforsa farm Shop & cafe
Visit going Isle of Iona
Fidden Farm campsite
Island Sauna shack
The Old Post Office Lochbuie, Moy castle

To Mull We Go

The Scenic Route via Lochaline

We had dreams of the Oban–Craignure ferry, but it turns out dreams need early bookings, especially right now, with a smaller ferry temporarily replacing the usual one. So we went rogue (and scenic) and took the road less travelled, the Lochaline to Fishnish ferry. Which by the way does have a couple of bonuses. 1) The drive in the mainland to lochaline is STUNNING and so scenic.

The ferry crossing takes about 15 minutes, so super short for anyone that suffers with a bit of sea sickness
You can book your crossing way more last minute and just turn up any time and queue to get on. No exact date or time slot needed.

And honestly? No regrets. Like we said the drive to Lochaline is seriously beautiful, snaking through glens and hugging lochs with barely another car in sight. Once on the ferry, we crossed the calm Sound of Mull and rolled off into a world of winding roads and pure island charm.

Tobermory Tales & Island Magic

First stop: Tobermory, aka Balamory for any CBeebies nostalgia fans. The harbour front is a riot of colour, pastel houses tumbling down the hillside like someone upended a bag of sweets.

We walked to the Tobermory Lighthouse, spotting seals bobbing about in the bay, and grabbed a scoop (or three) of the creamiest, dreamiest ice cream from Mull Ice Cream shop. Then it was time to hit the water with a wildlife and history boat trip, think rare sea birds, otters, and tales of shipwrecks that make you stare out at the waves just a little bit longer.

Back on land, we walked through the Atlantic temperate rainforest coastal path to Aros Falls, a gentle walk with huge payoffs, crashing waterfalls, mossy forests, and sea views that feel like you’re at the edge of the world. Hint: this is a great walk to do in the rain as most of it is pretty sheltered.

Dinner? Pizza from The Gallery (deliciously doughy and inventive)

Lunch? Freshly cooked langoustines from Fisherman’s Pier Seafood. Absolute chef’s kiss. And if you’re a foodie you will understand that west coast langoustines are a MUST!

Calgary Days & Cheese Dreams

Next up: Calgary Bay, the kind of beach that makes you wonder if you’ve accidentally driven to the Caribbean (then you dip a toe in and remember, oh no, Scotland). White sands, turquoise waters, and wild, open skies.

We popped into the Calgary Art Gallery ice cream shop (yes, ice cream again, no regrets), and then down the road, found the rustic charm of the Mull Cheese Shop Café. Toasties, cheese platters, and that slow, peaceful vibe you only get when there’s nothing else around but cows and curlews.

Heading inland, we stopped by the Salen shipwrecks, their old wooden hulls like something out of a pirate film. Then a highlight to end our day, a sauna and cold water dip at the Island Sauna Shack. Sweating it out in a wooden cabin with sea views before plunging into the Atlantic? Wild. Reviving. Slightly screamy. But also so, so perfect.

Over to Ulva, Cake, Views & Quiet Trails

We absolutely loved Ulva, An island that only has 10 full time adults residents living there. You will need to get a tiny little boat across, but this truly is a little hidden gem.

Ulva is wild in the best way. No cars, barely any people, and so many trails you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. But the real gem? The Boatyard Café. Picture this: sitting with a flat white and a slab of homemade carrot cake, gazing out at sparkling sea lochs and forested hills. The food is phenomenal, fresh, thoughtful, and served with that slow, island charm that makes you forget what time it is. In fact it was so good that after a lovely little 2K loop of the main part of the island we headed back for some wine and lunch, yes of course we got Langoustines…. again

Castles, Cows & Beach Walks

Back on Mull, we headed to the Old Post Office and the atmospheric ruins of Moy Castle, which rises up beside a glassy loch like something straight from a fairytale. From there, we walked the path to Laggan Sands, hoping to spot the famous Highland cows on the beach.

Sadly, no cows this time. But the beach was still a beauty — wide, golden, and utterly deserted apart from a few sea birds and two very excited children to have the whole beach to themselves.

Iona: Spiritual Shores & stunning beaches

A quick hop from Fionnphort and you’re on Iona, a place that feels different the moment your feet touch the sand.

We wandered the sacred halls of Iona Abbey, then headed north to Traigh Mhor (North Beach), where the white sand and clear waters looked almost too perfect to be real. The water was so beautiful we just had to go for a swim! You need to like cold water to take a dip here. Don’t be deceived, it looks like the Maldives but has temperatures of… well, Scotland. We refuelled at The Rookery café before taking a mooch in the boutique shops and a small walk to find another beautiful beach and ended our day on Iona with wood-fired pizza from Ailidh’s, eaten alfresco, with the sea breeze tangling our hair.

We stayed at Fidden Farm, just across the water, a campervan pitch like no other, with views across turquoise bays and curious sheep for neighbours, this campsite absolubtley deserves a mention because its locations is one of the best we’ve been to. We ended our day with, yes another, cold sea dip and roasted marshmallows around the fire on the beach.

Farm Shops, Castles & One Last Scenic Drive

On our final morning, we stopped for breakfast and coffee at the Glenforsa Farm Shop Café. Then did one last tourist stop at Duart Castle, perched dramatically above the sea like a granite guardian of the Sound.

Then it was time to roll back onto the ferry, watching the island slip away as seals lounged on the rocks and the sky did its dramatic Hebridean thing.

Road Life Forever

The roads on Mull are a ride. Twisting, narrow, but always breathtaking, with every corner offering a new view of craggy mountains, glittering lochs, or sheep just casually hanging out in the middle of the road. And doing it all in our Roadsurfer campervan? Utter freedom. No check-in times, no packing and unpacking, just the open road and the promise of the next adventure.

Van life suits us. And Mull, Ulva, and Iona? You were unforgettable.

Planning tips & final thoughts:

Ferries: Book in advance if you’re aiming for Oban to Craignure. If not, Lochaline to Fishnish is a brilliant Plan B.
Campervan hire: We loved our Roadsurfer — roomy, reliable, and ideal for a family of four.
Best time to go: May–September for the best weather (and puffin sightings!).
Don’t forget: A good waterproof, extra snacks, binoculars, and a readiness to wave at every passing car.

Until next time, wild Hebrides.